Rye and Brighton
Posted on July 7th, 2009 in Britain | No Comments »
We headed west from Dover following the coast road through Folkestone and Hythe then across Romney Marsh to arrive at Rye. Folkestone and Hythe are pleasant seaside towns but the beach along this coast is often hidden by a protective levy built by the Environment Agency to protect against sea flooding. The downside is that in many parts the sea view has been lost except from higher buildings.
Rye is a wonderful town with an ancient history. It has luckily avoided any redevelopment and town planning during the “Stalinist” 60’s. The result is a wonderful English town set on a hill overlooking Romney Marsh with river access to the sea. It was one of the Cinque ports defending the south coast and has a very pleasant atmosphere. There are local butchers and grocers mixed with eccentric shops and restaurants. The church on the top of the hill dates back to 1300 with a beautiful pendulum clock swinging in the gateway. I lived 20 years in London and this was the first time I had ever visited Rye!
After lunch in a wooden beamed pub we drove on through Hastings and Bexhill and Eastbourne to the South Downs. The South Downs are beautiful natural chalk highlands covered in grass and sheep. They are unspoilt. On leaving Eastbourne you can access Beachy Head with lovely views over Eastbourne and the channel. It was blowing a gale when we went there. From Beachy Head you pass through some wonderful countryside and then pass Seaford and Newhaven before entering Brighton. We came down the coast past lovely white regency houses and flats before entering the area called the Lanes by car and amazingly found a parking place. 100 meters away was the Queens Hotel with a special late booking rate. So here we are as I write in a great room overlooking Brighton Pier.
Tuesday July 7th:
After a walk along the pier and around the town we left for Chichester. On the way we drove through
Arundel with a wonderful castle and ancient centre. Chichester itself is a walled town with a pedestrian centre and much character. It has many music festivals and we ended up in a Fullers pub talking to some singers in a choir down from London to organise their choir’s visit to the town. Everyone very posh and a large percentage of elderly people around.
19:15 Just arrived in Salisbury - a really beautiful place which I will describe tomorrow. The Cathedral is tremendous and surrounded by beautiful grounds and houses. Earlier stopped in Arundel - also a splendid unspoilt town with an imposing Castle. I will have to describe Salisbury tomorrow because it is late and we just got back from a Pub meal. My ratings so far :
- Rye (unspoilt Cinque Port) 3 stars (older population)
- Chichester - nice but very Conservative and an elderly population 3 stars
- Brighton 4 stars (trendy elegant windy)
- Salisbury 4 stars (beautiful medieval city - couple of brutal 60’s redevelopments)







